Kapow! Biff! Clunk!

Berlusconi and his trained seal, justice minister Alfano, have been crowing about their latest victories against the Mafia – two arrests that just happened to coincide with the anti-Berlusconi march in Rome last Saturday (about which more anon). Proof, they say, that this government is cracking down on organised crime in an unprecedented fashion.


It’s a pity the police don’t agree. COISP, the independent police union, says that the recent arrests are a victory for the police and no one else, certainly not for a government that, rather than help in the fight against crime, actually impedes it by cutting resources. According to COISP, the police in Palermo don’t even have the paper they need to print warrants.

Listen up, Batman!
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Shock horror: Homophobic obscurantist has top job

I discovered an interesting fact about Italy’s National Research Council (CNR) today, thanks to a letter in Repubblica. The CNR is a state-financed public organization that, according to its website, exists “to carry out, promote, spread, transfer and improve research activities in the main sectors of knowledge growth and of its applications for the scientific, technological, economic and social development of the Country.” (I love that capital ‘C’.) This is a laudable aim but it’s a little hard to square with an event entitled Evoluzionismo: il tramonto di una ipotesi (Evolutionism: the twilight of an hypothesis), organized (although not apparently financed, for which much thanks) by the CNR, and intended to celebrate the 200th anniversary of Darwin’s birth. This is rather like celebrating the anniversary of Mother Teresa’s birth by holding a lap dancing competition but there you go, there’s nowt so queer as folk, especially scientific folk. Especially scientific folk in Italy’s top scientific body.


The conference was organized by the deputy president of the CNR, a certain Roberto de Mattei. You’d expect someone in such a prestigious position to have a pretty impressive scientific curriculum, and you’d be right. Let’s have a look. De Mattei is professor of that rigorous discipline, the history of Christianity and the church, in a place called Università Europea di Roma. No, I hadn’t heard of it either, but that’s hardly surprising. It’s run by the Legion of Christ (currently under investigation by the Vatican) and only started handing out degrees three years ago, after being granted permission to do so by the then-Berlusconi government. The Legion of Christ is justly famous for its level-headed approach to molesting children scientific endeavour, as is another richly spiritual organization, the Lepanto Foundation, of which the same De Mattei is the president. Judging from its site, which claims that the stated mission of the foundation is to “defend the principles and institutions of Western Christian civilisation”, the Lepanto Foundation is a sort of vanity press for the works of its main man. These include: “Turkey in Europe: benefit or catastrophe?” (I’ll leave it to you to work out the answer to that one) and “Holy War, Just War”. Just the sort of thing that qualifies a man to become second in command of a national research council and to make him supremely competent to talk about evolution. Sorry, evolutionism.

And if you’re still not quite convinced of the man’s credentials, here’s the clincher. After the 2000 Gay Pride in Rome, which culminated in Piazza San Giovanni, de Mattei and some chums went along to the square to perform, in laboratory conditions naturally, a rite of expiation. So that’s all right then.

(One last thing. The acts of the conference, edited by de Mattei, have since been published ‘with a modest financial contribution’ from the Publications and Scientific Information Office of the CNR.)
Posted in creationism, homophobia, italy, religion, science, very dark cave | Leave a comment

Garden Noam

According to Boing Boing, garden gnomes can take £15,000 off the value of your house. I wonder what Chomsky would have to say about that.

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A thousand and more pictures

Scott Pack says this is one of the best things you’ll see this year. You have to be a book-lover for this to be true, but I’m sure you are, otherwise you wouldn’t be here. You can buy a humbler version of the dictionary here or from Amazon. I’ve just ordered mine…

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Crossed digits

I’ve spent too much time today trying to get our television in the kitchen to work. Or, to be more precise, trying to get our NEW television in the kitchen to work. Everything was fine until a few months ago. We’d sit and eat our lunch while cooks showed us how to tart up ten euros-worth of groceries, then watch the 1.30 news with a mixture of anguish, irritation and incredulous hilarity, turning it off when the sports news started. A few hours later, we’d turn it on again, while cooking, and sometimes eating, dinner, to see if the official stories had changed. Italian TV journalism, for someone used to the way things are done in the UK – one human interest story, ideally involving children, a rapid skimming of the day in politics with a couple of sound bites and a brief nod at the rest of the world (the States or a really big disaster in one of those places that otherwise don’t exist), all of it dosed with knowing irony and pseudo-detachment, except for the bits with children, which would make a Hallmark rhymester cringe -, compared to all this, I repeat, Italian TV journalism is, well, too much information.


The BBC, in its wisdom, does the sifting first, to remove their notion of what constitutes the chaff from their notion of what constitutes the wheat. The RAI, in its sublime contempt, removes all the wheat it can find, lets the chaff ferment and thrive until it has a life of its own, then shovels it through the screen and into the homes of the telespectators, as they’re still, touchingly, known, less to make things grow than to suffocate them at the moment of conception. What makes the two main news programmes, TG1 and TG2, interesting, though, despite all their directors’ efforts, is that news of a sort gets through. Because something is always more than nothing, even the most self-serving and obscurantist something. Umberto Eco once pointed out that conspiracy theorists should read the financial news with more attention because all they need to know is there, and the same might be said of Italian TV journalism. Reading between, above, below and despite the lines, there’s little that isn’t, in some way, said.


So, everything was fine until a month or so ago, when the process of moving from analogue to digital TV began in Lazio, where I live. The first step involved the shift of two channels – one state, one owned by Berlusconi – to digital, immediately depriving us of TG2, the news programme that, unofficially, ‘belonged’ to the Northern League. Pazienza, we thought. We can live without Bossi and his green-shirted cronies crusading against minarets and kebab joints. We might not even need a television in the kitchen. We’ll wait until the whole shebang goes digital. Which it did, a couple of weeks ago. We stared at the fizzing lines for a while before giving in and deciding that what we really needed wasn’t just a decoder, a trifling expense I deeply resented, but a brand-new telly, a much larger expense that, for some reason, I resented far less.

Off we went to our local electrical goods emporium (TRONY – NON CI SONO PARAGONI!) to buy one. Flat screen, the thickness of a Dan Brown, 26 inches. These days TVs programme themselves. All you have to do is sit and watch. Except that it couldn’t find the channels, or not very well, and even the ones it did find looked small and sounded tinny. We weren’t happy. We needed something bigger, and better. We packed it back in its box and went to exchange it. For something bigger, and better. Trony is the only retail outlet in Fondi that looks as though it might belong somewhere else, in a country where retail rules. The prices are reasonable, the choice wide, the credit facilities all too readily available. Even the people who work there are courteous and informed (I mean this). But even Trony was a little stressed out as the entire populace of Fondi (or its grandmother) queued, decoder in hand, to get their mojos home and working. Romero would have loved it.

We now have a 32 inch Samsung, a thing of great elegance and beauty. We’ve had it since Saturday. Unfortunately, despite being auto-programmed half a dozen times a day, and sworn at, and coaxed, its gleaming black screen remains unsullied by images of any kind. There was a brief, exhilarating parenthesis when a local channel transmitting highlights from this summer’s international folk dancing festival broke through the darkness to reveal some meaty grass-skirted Polynesians air-rowing their way across a creaking stage. Apart from that, nada. So this morning we called the aerial man. And, as is usual when confronted by an expert, I learnt all kinds of thing I hadn’t known. I learnt, for example, that my aerial was laughable out of date. I learnt that aerials necessarily have an alimentatore (don’t ask) and that I didn’t have the faintest idea where ours was, although it’s most probably behind a large kitchen dresser filled with glasses. This will have to be moved. I learnt that, even with Sky, the RAI and many commercial channels will be unavailable. I learnt that if I wanted to continue watching cooks vie with each other over pasta-making machines and Daniele Capezzone, currently the vilest of all Berlusconi’s mouthpieces, strut his mendacious self-serving stuff (and I do, despite myself, want this), I would have to spend something like 200 euros, on top of the cost of the new TV. I learnt that I could extend my Sky contract to a second TV for a modest monthly sum and a less modest sum up front. I learnt that whatever I decided I wanted I would have to wait some days before I got it. Learning isn’t painless.

I’ll keep you informed.

PS I’ve just noticed that I’ve used the word self-serving to talk about Italian institutions twice. I wonder why.
Posted in berlusconi, journalism, television, umberto eco | Leave a comment

Troppo sapeva

I’ve just finished my usual round-up of the day’s English language papers, sitting here at my desk in a small provincial Italian town, without even having left the house. I’ve read the Guardian, the New York Times, the Independent. I’ve glanced at the front pages of the Times in both London and Los Angeles, and even, god help me, the Daily Mail. I’ve checked out headlines in Australia and South Africa (OK; I’m exaggerating now – I do have work to do). All this would have been impossible only a few years ago, and I’d be tempted to write something rather dull, but positive, about the availability of information, the shrinking world, and so on, if it weren’t for the fact that not a single paper thinks it worth reporting the latest developments in the Berlusconi-Mafia saga.


Of course, there are reasons for this. The indignation fatigue I mentioned in my previous post, which has spread beyond the national borders to sprinkle its sleepy dust over foreign news desks elsewhere. The ‘what’s new?’ feel about so much of the information. The irreducible italianità of it all, with all those legal terms that have no equivalent in other ‘normal’ countries. The notion that Italy, despite the great ‘organic’ food and Andrea Bocelli and all those little men who can’t wait to help us restore casali in Tuscany, shouldn’t really be taken seriously, particularly right now with the tin-pot Casanova at its head. It’s as though a whole country, one of the leading world economies and a member of all the most exclusive G clubs (7, 8, 20…), with forces in all the imperial outposts, had somehow been replaced by its comic equivalent, gurning and wiggling its hips in a corner of the room, only to be ignored despite its antics.

Which is more than a pity. Because Berlusconi’s game is becoming wilder and more desperate by the day and shouldn’t be ignored by anyone who cares one jot about Europe or, for that matter, the nature of populism and democracy, if only because it’s the kind of game that could, as my mother used to say, end in tears. Two days ago he was in Sardinia, where he told his audience of young supporters that, if he had the chance, he would ‘throttle’ the people who made a popular television series about the Mafia (La Piovra) and all those authors who defamed Italy by writing about the Mafia. The last person to inveigh against La Piovra like this was Zeffirelli, a man whose career arc has plummeted from Visconti to the payroll of the Great Buffoon. The fact that Roberto Saviano, author of Gomorrah, has written a public letter denouncing the latest plot to rewrite the legal code in Berlusconi’s favour is obviously neither here nor there, though Saviano would be wise to hang onto his police protection yet awhile. Berlusconi used the verb ‘strozzare’, inelegant at the best of times and, in this context, deeply tainted by the lexical dye of Cosa Nostra. He also told a joke about Einstein, who died because ‘he knew too much’ (see title of post). Nobody expects the language of statesmanship from the man, but it would be nice if he could raise his game to the level of, say, someone selling silver-plated bracelets on a shopping channel.


Posted in berlusconi, italy, mafia, saviano | 3 Comments

Punished for good behaviour

If you’re in Rome on 5 December you might like to take part in No-Berlusconi Day, the product of a viral campaign to eject the Buffoon from power before he does any more damage. Don’t be put off (or encouraged?) by the fact that the demonstration is now being referred to, rather unfortunately, as nobday. It looks as though it’s going to be a big event, although I detect a certain indignation fatigue setting in among people who, three years ago, would have happily ripped down the walls of Villa Certosa with their teeth and nails. Indifference, even if feigned, is both a pretty extraordinary way to react as things go from bad to worse and, at the same time, explicable precisely because of the decline from malgovernance to mafia that we’re witnessing at the moment. It’s a long story and others can – and will – tell it better than I can, but it’s emerging from confessions made by mafiosi pentiti (grasses) that a series of terrorist attacks in Rome and Florence may have been instigated by two politicians – Marcello Dell’Utri (looking cultured in photo), B’s right-hand man and already convicted of collusion with the mafia, and the Buffoon himself. They had political reasons for this and it doesn’t take too fine a mind to work out what these might have been. But nothing comes without its price, and it appears that Berlusconi has been less than loyal to his old friends. A series of laws should have been revoked or modified to give the mafia more wiggle room. This hasn’t happened, for reasons that we can only imagine. But it’s ironic that the shit should hit the fan because Berlusconi has failed to keep his promise to the world of organised crime. The fact that the pentiti are now spilling beans to magistrates with what seems to be the approval of Cosa Nostra can only mean that it’s in the interest of the latter to shaft their old comrade-in-arms. Revenge is a dish best eaten cold, as the proverb has it. Which is rather a pity, because Berlusconi is getting more and more heated by the day.

Posted in berlusconi, corruption, mafia, politics | Leave a comment

The Fiction Desk interview

A couple of weeks ago I met up with Rob, the man behind one of the most interesting and wide-ranging literary blogs around, The Fiction Desk. We had an excellent lunch and talked about, among other things, writing, publishing strategies, power and casual cruelty. This is the result. And this is me standing in front of a wall on Via Ostiense in Rome, a few yards from where I work.

Posted in any human face, interview, little monsters, picador, the scent of cinnamon, writing | Leave a comment

Charlotte Gainsbourg and Beck: Heaven can Wait

Posted in beckmann, music | 1 Comment

Partial but clear-sighted vision

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